Monday, December 3, 2012

Blog Moving

My new website has been launched!

I've been considering what to do with my blogger and with my website. On the one hand I would like to keep my blog here somewhat separate from my professional page. And on the other, I think I'm easy enough to find here that any potential employer or future partner could find this anyway, and it might be better marketing to just have everything in one place.
After quite a bit of consideration I will be moving my blog over to my official website. 
I am not sure how exactly I will be able to transfer the content here - if I am able to at all - but I will update this post about that when I figure it out. 


In the meantime! Please check out my new site! 




Tuesday, November 27, 2012

Garden Roses and Indoor Roses

Fancy Pants Miniature Rose - Two months ago

We had our first snow! It's officially winter time in Philadelphia.
It's been cold for a little while now, and all my herbs in the garden are dead, dead, dead. Well, all except the Rosemary, Sage, and Thyme who are somehow holding on.

Fancy Pants Miniature Rose - Yesterday
Also holding on is my beautiful Fancy Pants Miniature Rose. It's incredible. I'm really quite shocked by how beautiful this rose is turning out to be. I purchased it on a whim (From HeirloomRoses.com) and wasn't expecting much. When it arrived it was healthy, a month after planting it was yeilding blooms, but it was still just mediocre to my tastes. However! It seems like the more that this mini establishes itself, the more beauty and tenacity it has! Which is to be expected, but still, shocker! The foliage is now a deep dark purple-green color that is absolutely to die for! And the blooms? Legitimately deep red on the outside petals, and white with blood red tips on the inside. They were not this beautiful before!

Fancy Pants Miniature Rose, pictured on the left.
The pink is actually blood red in person, please excuse the poor cell phone photo! Better photo coming soon!

Additionally, the ground is now covered in snow, making the blooms stand out even more!









And the Gross adult Aphids... :(
Conversely, my indoor rose is not doing so well. I have kept indoor roses before, and never had much problem growing them indoors. However, they are usually miniatures, and I was living in a different climate at the time. This time, I brought my David Austin Charity Rose indoors so that it could establish itself a little more before weathering a harsh winter outdoors. I'm unfortunately experiencing a very large aphid problem.

After reading a lot on the wonderful GardenWeb.com forums, I made a "Garlic Spray" that I will be using on them tonight when I get home from work. From different people online I figured that I could mince (and then mash with the flat of the knife!) a whole garlic bulb, "saute" it in the frying pan with some water, add some spicy pepper (I chose to use ghost pepper powder, though I've read any spicy pepper or pepper sauce will do), and then let it all steep in boiling hot water like tea for an hour. I will then spray it on my roses (currently spending the afternoon on the porch) when I get home. Hopefully this mixture will work, because they're pretty nasty! I also plan on doing some serious pruning this evening.









David Austin Charity Rose - 1 month growth
(Ring for size reference)
David Austin Charity Rose - 6 months later
(The single tall stem has been trimmed all the way down twice.)



Wednesday, November 14, 2012

Daenerys - Game of Thrones Cosplay - Qarth

So, over the last month and a half I've received a number of emails from a number of different potential clients through my etsy shop. 
They've all been requesting general information about possible costume commissions from HBO's Game of Thrones series - Based on George R. R. Martin's A Song of Ice and Fire book series, which is really good, and you should go read it. ^_~

Ultimately, not many of these requests have actually panned out. A lot of people want high quality reproductions of costumes from the show (or from other things), but don't want to pay for it. While we're on this topic, let's be straight up here, my work is "super affordable" compared to what it's worth or what's already out there in the market. My work is always as accurate as possible, made with high quality materials that are as authentic as possible, and I can pump out a costume like that in about a week or less. For example, last month's "book-version" Melisandre dress sold for $200, including 3 day shipping, and was probably worth closer to the $350-$400 range. I worked on that dress for about 5 days straight. Keep in mind, that according to articles with the actual costuming staff for HBO it takes a team of them to finish one in three days. That's a pretty good ratio, since I'm a one-woman-show over here. :P

Regardless, I do realize a lot of this, and realized most of this years ago. I accept it as part of the territory that I have to try to work around or find new answers to. So this time? My answer is to simply just make the costumes. It seems that a lot of people will tentatively inquire about a custom made costume, and then shy away when they get answers. I'm hoping if the product is already out there, they'll just buy it and request modifications instead. So.. that being said, my current project is one of the more popular costumes from the show: Daenerys's blue and gold Qarth gown from Season 2. (Pictured above, as featured in Entertainment Weekly)

My silk for the main portion of the gown has been on back order for the last month and a half. However, I finally got it in! I'll be documenting how I do things as I go along, hopefully, or I will do a large update of the process when it is finished.
Some of the materials I'll be using

I will be working out the pattern this evening and tomorrow night (I have a full time job, so it's nights and weekend only sewing!) and hopefully cutting and pinning this weekend. I will be pinning it together in it's raw from to make sure everything is flowing the way I'd like and so I can plan my next steps.
Then, I will be testing scraps of the fabric for different textures, chemical setting wear and pleats, and experimenting with my silk dyes and paints to find the right blue and gold combinations. This process is likely to take up to three days, simply to cover all of my test basis.

And then? The super exciting part. Actually doing the final chosen process to the fabric and sewing it together! ^_~
I'm currently planning on using a very thick faux leather for the belt and shoulder pieces. Which I'm both excited for and slightly saddened by. I do not currently have the space to do that size of metal casting/fabrication like I used to. Wish I did, though! Some day!!

Anyway, stay posted!


Tuesday, September 25, 2012

Newest Project Finished!

So this week I was able to finish and photograph my latest gown. This is a renaissance piece, with elven inspiration! It is a floor length red suede-cloth gown featuring golden trim, with hand-detailed bronze gems, a two foot train, sleeves that not only feature the beautiful length but also a concealed pocket for a purse, cell phone, or other items.




It is available for purchase on my etsy Walker And White.
It is a size medium, which is a flexible fit up to 38" bust, 30" waist, and 39" hips.
The model in this photo, the ever so talented Stephanie, is 6 feet tall, so that will give you an idea on how low the bottom trim will end on you. :)
Please contact me with any questions. ^_^
I also take custom orders at comparable and reasonable prices based on your ideal budget.

Thursday, September 6, 2012

DIY Credit - Free Credit Report dot Com - using it to learn.

This is a guide to understanding your actual credit report, and learning while using Free Credit Report . com which uses the Experian report.

You can read about what credit is in general in this entry here:  http://walkerandwhite.blogspot.com/2012/09/diy-credit-in-general.html

Free Credit Report.com may not be the best website out there for reading your report, and there are ways you can get your report free directly from the credit bureaus, but I highly recommend running a freecreditreport.com report at least once.
It explains every little thing and what it means, specific to your situation. While it doesn't go into a lot of depth, hopefully this guide and their tips together will give you a good starting point to understanding how to use your credit to your benefit.

By law, you can request one free credit report from each of the three credit bureaus. Many people choose to check one of these every 4 months, so they spread their free reports throughout the year.
I personally choose to pay for my report through FreeCreditReport so that I can check in weekly to see how different spending habits change my account, and because I had a personal experience with a false negative. I would rather pay every month so I can see what is happening under my name, in case anything false ever comes up again, and because I am in the process of making large financial decisions I need to prepare my credit for. I wish I would have done this sooner, I would have been prepared earlier.

The three credit bureaus and links to their free report process:
Experianhttp://www.experian.com/credit-advice/topic-get-credit-report.html
Equifaxhttp://www.equifax.com/answers/request-free-credit-report/en_cp
TransUnionhttps://disclosure.transunion.com/dc/disclosure/disclosureCRPricingDtls.jsp



FreeCreditReport.com --- It seems a little tricky, but it really isn't, and I'll talk you through the whole thing. Go over there, suck it up, and sign up. No, it's not free. Your first report will cost you $1. You then have 7 days (it'll tell you exactly how long and how much in the blue bar at the top of the site) to cancel your membership or you'll get charged the first month membership price, and it will continue to charge you every month. I personally think that $16.99 is way too much to be charging for one damn report. So, I called in to cancel my membership, told them this, and they dropped the price down to $8 a month.


Calling Free Credit Report.com: 1-877-481-6826.
"For your convenience, our Call Center is open:
Monday-Friday from 6 a.m. to 6 p.m.,
Saturday-Sunday 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. (Pacific Time)"

 I figured I could scrape together $8 a month to continue to pay for something this important. And if you can't, there are options. You can do run the FreeCreditReport $1 version, cancel membership before 7 days and check back every few months. Or do this once to learn, and then rely on the free reports directly from the bureaus. Or of course, just read this for the information about credit in general and rely on the free reports. Lots of ways, no excuses not to look into it. ^_~

But, for now... with FreeCreditReport . Com.

    • So, now you've got your membership, you've called in and got the cheaper price, and now you're looking at your online page. You'll get this page first. (below) Skip it every time. Just click "No thanks, take me to my new homepage." You get a copy of all three credit bureaus' reports every three months through this site, you don't need all three all the time.
Skip this page every time. You get the "3" included in your membership every three months anyway.

There are a few really great features to this website. Your home page is a great place to start. You can see a bar across the top with different tabs that will show you different aspects of your credit in short form. There are also a set of tabs about halfway down the page that are very useful. Read each tab, it'll teach you a little about your credit. And don't freak out if there is negative information, it's okay. You can either dispute it if it's false, and fix it over time if it's true. It is not the end of the world, and don't let it make you feel like giving up or "it's no use to pay attention to credit since it's messed up already." It is even more important to pay attention to it if your credit score isn't great or if there are negative reports. How else will it improve? 

Free credit report. com really does a great job with teaching you about credit. It explains a lot of "why this is, and why that matters" on almost every tab. I've circled the most important tabs on the home page in the photo below. 

free credit report.com home page, with important tabs circled in yellow.
2 - Go ahead and click through the tabs half way down the page. It'll give you a little overview, and quickly explain why these things are important/what they mean.


  • Credit and Debt: "Two of the most important figures lenders consider when you apply for a loan are your total debt and the amount of credit you have available. Having credit cards does not hurt you, but maxing them out does."  Having even a large balance on your credit cards can hurt you. It hurts your Revolving Credit (the amount you have spent on your credit card) - to debt (the amount you have available to spend) ratio. This ratio is shown in that circle/pie chart there. Revolving Credit to Debt ratio shows banks, ect, that you have money available to spend on your credit cards in case of emergency. In case something happened, they want to know that you'd have money to pay them/your bills via credit cards, ect, and that they wouldn't get screwed over as much if something bad happened. If your credit cards are maxed out, you not only don't have emergency fund, but you also owe even more money to other people which isn't a great thing when it's credit card debt. (installment loans like your school bills actually help you, whereas credit card debt hurts you)
    • It is a great idea that if you do use your credit cards to pay them off by the Statement Date every month -- not the Due Date. Yes, they HAVE to be paid by the Due Date, but if the Statement date is a few days earlier, pay it before that date. Why? Because the date the credit report pays attention to is the Statement Date. It doesn't care when the due date is, as long as you pay it.  The Statement Date is when the report goes in and checks your balances. So let's say you want to get a car loan on the 20th of the month, and your statement date is the 14th, while your due date is the 17th. Le'ts also say that you owe $300 to your credit card and plan on paying it off before you apply for your car loan. If you pay it off by the statement date, it will show up on your credit report on the 20th as paid off, which literally raises your credit score number and improves your credit-to-debt ratio, which means it's more likely you'll get approved for that car loan you want. BUT, if you pay that $300 on the 17th, it won't make it onto this month's report, even though you paid it. So when you apply for the loan on the 20th, your score won't be as high and that could hurt your chances at getting the best interest rate for that car loan, or even that car loan at all. 

  • Negative Information: This is the part that hurts a bit. This will tell you if you've ever made a financial mistake, or if there is a case of identity theft, or a false negative reported mistakenly by a business. 
    • If there is anything on there that you don't recognize, you can dispute them through the three credit bureaus as well as to that company directly. (For example, I had a false report from Verizon stating that I failed to pay - which pretty much means I either don't get any loans, or I have to pay a really high interest rate as a result. This was a false report, I had paid, and in time, they had sent me to collections anyway even though I had already paid them months before. It was an error. I had to email and physically write to everyone involved to get it resolved - Verizon, Experian, Equifax, and TransUnion.) 
    • If there are things on there that are mistakes that you made financially, you now know about them and can work on fixing/repairing your credit. Negatives stay active on your account for 7 years. However, every single month and year that passes since that went on your report, it has less and less impact. Meaning, it isn't as bad. The first year after a negative will be the worst, but by the fifth year it might mean very little. Also, your score can continue to go up, even with that negative on there. I've also heard that you can dispute these, even if you are responsible, and sometimes they'll be removed but I have no personal experience with this and cannot personally recommend it. 
  • Length of History: This tells you how long your accounts have been around. For example, for how many years you've had that credit card, or how long you've been paying your school loans. Every month and year that you pay anything on time without a missed payment (which can become a negative on your report) improves your score. The longer the history of open accounts, the better. It shows that you can spend years paying your bills on time. 
  • Hard Inquiries: This is pretty important. Every time you apply for a credit card, a loan, or even to a new wireless phone company they can choose to do a "hard inquiry" which means they check your report to decide if they want to lend you anything or rely on you to pay your bill every month. All Credit Cards, and Loans will do this. Each hard inquiry lasts on your report for two years. The more you get the higher your risk goes. Think of it as this, if you have too many inquiries, banks will know that you're applying lots of places for money, which means that you are a bigger risk to take financially than someone who only is applying one or two places in a short period of time. 0-2 inquiries is considered low risk, 3-5 is medium, and 6-8+ is high.
  • Account Types: This is a nice little break down of the types of credit that you have, and how big of an impact (good impact) they have on your score. For example, Real Estate can bring your score up the most, and your school loans (Installment loans) are the second biggest hitters. So, in a way, owing so much money for your education is actually helping you a ton financially. Even though, it doesn't feel that way. 

3 - Okay! I know that was long, but next tab set!! At the very top. Now we'll navigate away from your home page. I mostly pay attention to only the Home, Alerts and Report tabs, but that's my opinion. 
  • Home: You're already there, we just talked about it. :P It's the short overview hub.
  • Alerts: This tells you every change in your report. So when your score goes up, it creates an alert here. If the score goes down, it shows you here. If there's a hard Inquiry, or a negative posted, they're here. And you can browse through them. It's neat to see and keep track of the changes here, but that's about it.
  • Score: It's really not that amazing. Just tells you your score, again. Plus side is the "Understand your score" tab, it will help teach you a little bit about how/why that number is yours. But, again, don't freak out if it isn't very en-heartening. 
  • Report: THIS IS THE BIG ONE!! This is the gateway to where your actual report is kept. We'll go over this next.
  • ID Protection: I honestly ignore this tab completely. I don't know much of it, and a lot of it seems like it's trying to get you to buy more. haha. 
  • Rewards: Again, same thing with ID Protection.. I just don't think it's useful to me, and seems like marketing from the site.
  • Resources: This is pretty decent, honestly. It's like a library of how tos. Of course, the actual government has how-to sites and that kind of info if you want to learn more.
4 - Let's get to your actual report. Click on the Report tab. It will take you to the general Report page, this is not your actual report. 

Report Step 1: Ignore most of this page. Click "Refresh Experian Report" You can do this as often in a month as you would like. Sometimes it will change a number of times in the month. Remember it only checks in on things like your credit card info once a month on the statement date, but it does update other information as it becomes available. Refreshing your report here will also refresh your numbers and other things across your other tabs on freecreditreport.com, like "home".
Ignore most of this page. Click "Refresh Experian Report" 

Report Step 2: Next, it will take you to what looks like a check out page. Choose the second option, not the three selection (unless it's been your three months and it's saying you can get all three for free. this only happens every 3 months.) Your total for checkout should be $0. Then Click "Submit Secure Order"

Your total for checkout should be $0. Then Click "Submit Secure Order" 

Report Step 3: And then it will take you to another screen, click "View Your Credit Report"



Report Step 4: This is the big one, this is your ACTUAL report. This is what banks, credit card companies, ect, all look at when they consider loaning you any money. Free Credit Report does a great job of explaining a lot of things on their site. And the best way for you to learn what it all means is to just read through every section of your report. 

It will be all personal information, so I'm not going to include a screen capture for these ones. Just a small capture of the options/parts of your report that will appear on the top left corner as links. You'll want to click through every single one of these.

Table of Contents on your actual Credit Report on FreeCreditReport.com

Table of Contents: Click through each of these in order to read about different parts of your report.

  1. Personal Information: Make sure everything shown here is accurate and updated. It is important.
  2. Report Summary: Exactly what it sounds like. It's a summary. Everything has details in the following sections.
  3. Bankruptcy & Court Judgments: "This section contains court-related information, including bankruptcies, state and county court records, tax liens, monetary judgments, and in some states, overdue child support payments. Remember, bankruptcies remain on your Credit Report for 7-10 years." 
  4. Credit Inquiries: This is a detailed version of what we talked about earlier, the tab that shows up on your home page. :) You can see who inquired about your credit, and if you didn't authorize or initiate it, then you might be a victim of identity theft/fraud and there are processes you can go through to have that removed.
  5. Credit Cards, Loans, & Other Debt: This is a big break down of every single credit card, school loan, mortgage, car loan, store credit card, and even wireless phone accounts. You can click the "details" link on every one of them to expand it. This will give you/banks detailed information on if you have made consistent payments on time, the current balance, the age of the account, the limit, ect. This is really important to check to make sure everything there really is yours. (Sometimes, you need to do a little more digging, for example I had one on there that I did not recognize, it turned out to be an additional account for the same credit card I had. Another company had bought my credit card company out, so it created a second listing on my report.) Again, if something isn't yours, dispute it - especially if it is negative. 
  6. Credit Score: This is your actual # Score. Banks, and other businesses that inquire about your credit, use this to determine whether to loan you money or what to set your interest rate at. The higher the number, the better the score. Experian uses a scale of 330 (lowest) to 830 (highest), with them anything higher than 700 is considered good credit. the 600s is fair, and so forth. This section will also tell you a little bit about what Raises your # and what Lowers it. Things for you to work on now and in the future.
  7. Next Steps: This is just a tool from FreeCreditReport.com, and not really part of your report.

Remember, when you refresh your report (you can only do it once a day, but you can view the one you pulled that day as many times as you'd like) it refreshes all the other tabs on freecreditreport.com. So you can go back to your home page, and it may look different than when you signed in.


Please check out my other entry which explains credit in general in more detail.
http://walkerandwhite.blogspot.com/2012/09/diy-credit-in-general.html





DIY Credit : In General


I've been out of college for about two years now. And of course, that's the glorious time in your life full of revelations, and most of them aren't well.. great.
You always hear about them, but always discount them or figure it won't be you, or maybe just you really didn't hear about them. And of course, being a "part" of "That Occupy Generation" the news loves to talk about so much, it means we have a few more things to be bitter about when life/reality smacks us 20-somethings in the face.

It's the realizations that get you...
...realizing you're burnt out after you studied something for 2-6 years, and don't want to touch it anymore no matter how much you loved it. And of course, that makes you feel guilty (because you loved it so much!), it makes you feel lost, and can lead to an all out "oh-shit-what-the-hell-do-i-do-now!?"
...realizing you've got a shit ton of school loans to pay back, and have no idea how to go about paying them back. And the pressure of suddenly living with something so big that, while older adults are used to living with by now, is a totally new daily burden for us.
...realizing that you're making maybe $1-$3 more dollars an hour than when you were in your high school summer jobs. Man... that's a damn hard pill to swallow after $40,000-$150,000 + in school loan debt.
...realizing that you have no clue how to get your foot in the door career wise, let alone, how to approach half of the other shit that people "always warned you about", like paying all your bills on time and with the little money you're making, or like how "being responsible means not messing up your credit", or like "ah, you'll just take the first job, it doesn't matter what you study, you need to pay your bills somehow."
...realizing that your parents and teachers didn't necessarily know not only everything, but maybe absolutely little about specific subjects. Like how to deal with the first signs of getting older, or how to eat healthily, or how credit really affects you or even what it is exactly.

In my house, credit was this big huge boogie-monster my mum used to scare us kids into "being responsible".
And you know, in college? It was pretty much the same thing.
I only had one professor ever who even mentioned it. That person? My math teacher. He actually gave us a lot of useful and life relevant assignments - surprising for a college environment. (Note: I did not attend a great university. So, perhaps other people had different experiences, where your university actually prepared you for "real life".) He gave us a lot to think about in regards to credit, and things like depreciation on brand new vehicles and the overall amount you'd end up paying via installment loans, ect, ect. However, since I had never heard a single tidbit of this information before, it was hard to grasp in a real-life-scenario way.
So, like my Dad always said "you gotta learn your own lessons, kid."


So, this is what I've learned personally about credit, building your credit, and watching your credit. It's gonna be long winded, and I apologize, but I think it's really important to get out there. It is so easy to get screwed over, and I'm pretty sure our generation is clueless because nobody ever taught us properly because no one ever taught them. Please don't hesitate to ask any further questions via comments or email at WalkerAndWhite // gmail. 


First of all. Go check your damn report. 
This is how a lot of us, an alarmingly high number, get totally screwed right off the bat - by not checking. I know personally I didn't even think about it. Also, when I finally got around to thinking about it I was daunted by the numbers, depressed that I "didn't have a great credit score" which in my mind translated as worth, and didn't understand the damn thing anyway so I just ignored it for a few months even after checking.
Maybe our parents didn't teach us, maybe our friends didn't know either, and maybe college ignored the subject completely, but you know? WE HAVE GOOGLE! Man up, read up, and just do it.

It is the biggest step that you can do in securing your financial future. And if you screwed up in some way (a lot of us did, honestly.) you can see it, and start fixing it ASAP so you can get that car loan when you finally get that new job. Or something bigger, like the mortgage on your first house. I know it may seem unimportant right now... I didn't check mine for a long time because I didn't foresee my financial circumstances changing any time in the future, but I ended up paying that price later - and it sucked!

I know "financial future" is a term that seems to stab our inner child, but really, if you take care of it, you'll free up so much effort, time, and money so you can actually enjoy that inner childishness when it wants out.


You can read my personal choice for checking your credit, which includes step by step information useful to people checking their credit anywhere in my post about using Free Credit Report.com as a method to learn more about your credit and credit in general. 

http://walkerandwhite.blogspot.com/2012/09/diy-credit-free-credit-report-dot-com.html

I honestly believe this is a fantastic way to learn. So could start there if you want. Some of that is repeated here, but that update is more in depth about the actual credit report and what those different things mean - even if you don't choose to use the site I do. So please read. 

This is an overview, important things to know about Credit as a whole.
This isn't a very scientific break down or explanation, but that's why I'm writing this. You can google "credit for beginners" and learn a lot from banker and government websites. But this is the simple, my-experiences version.


Okay, What is Credit? And why should I give a shit when I'm young and don't plan on buying anything big aaaaany time soon?
Credit isn't just credit cards.
Credit isn't just the number/score.
It isn't a lot of things.
It IS, however, one of the gateways to your own personal future.
You cannot get a mortgage, a car loan, a school loan, or even a new cell phone company without credit.
It is a detailed history of your financial decisions that comes with a judge-able number. It includes all kinds of information; from your current address, to the total of your school loan/mortgage/car loan/credit card debts, to how much you pay monthly in bills of that type, to whether you've had any late payments, non payments, bankruptcy or financial effecting court decisions.

Your Credit Score is the big number everybody is always talking about. The one that banks/ect look at to see if your number is "high enough" for them to loan to you. It's effected by a lot of different things and mostly on your own financial decisions. It is not just some arbitrary made up number. Each of the three big credit bureaus (Experian, TransUnion, Equifax) have their own number scale, but they are all very similar. For the most part the range is 300 to 850. 300 would be the worst case end of things, where you will find it extremely difficult to get even a Sears store credit card. 850 would be the opposite end, the almost absolutely perfect end where you could go get a loan for your own private jet if you wanted. 700 is considered ideal/decent, while 500 or less is considered "bad". The lower your score is the less likely you are to get approved for loans/credit cards/ect, and if you do get approved it means that your interest rate on that loan will be higher. You can read a lot more in depth information on what makes a credit score here at the credit score wiki page..


Your Credit Report is where the details behind that number (score) are. This will tell you everything financially related that is currently effecting you and your credit. All of your school loans, credit cards, store cards, car loans, mortgages, current and past. It's all there, and each thing has details listed. It says exactly how much you owe, how long you've owed it for, and if you have or have not been sent to collections, been significantly late on a payment, or owe anybody anything, ect.

Banks/ect look at your credit score, they can also look at the entire report.
No bank or business can look at your credit report at any time they want to, they need your permission. 
Applying for any loan, credit card, store card, or for a new cell phone carrier IS approving them/giving permission to them to run a hard inquiry on your credit. Anyone, other than yourself, looking at your report is called a Hard Inquiry. (See a detailed description of this further below.)
Each Hard Inquiry makes an impact on you and your score and your risk. If you have too many hard inquiries this will cause your score to go down and your risk to go up. (See a detailed description of Risk below.)




Apply for credit cards and loans carefully. This is very important. Do not apply for "as many credit cards as you can get", because you will get that same number of inquiries which will cause your score to go down. If you're looking for your first credit card and don't have a lot of credit history, apply to ones that have reputations for that situation.
For example, the Amazon.com Chase Credit/"store" Card is a Visa and is fairly easy to get for people with little credit history. It comes with a small limit of $400, it also doesn't have a yearly fee. You also get an amazon gift card for signing up. (However, watch your amazon checkout carefully when you make purchases after getting their card. It will automatically choose their card for payment when you go to check out, you'll have to change this in your settings to have it set back to your regular card.)
You do not, for example, want to apply for an American Express card of any type. They have a reputation for being the hardest card out there to get approved for. I know people with great credit that have been denied. Discover isn't terribly "easy" either. When you apply for cards that are difficult to get there is a higher chance you will be denied - which means you took the damage from having an additional hard inquiry, but did not get the extra good points from being approved for that item.

When you get approved for a credit card it will improve your credit score by making that number go up. However, if you then spend all the money available on that credit card it will make your score go down, so be careful.

Store cards, like that Victoria's Secret Store Card, are also easier to get if you have very little credit history. However, store cards carry the least amount of weight on your credit report. They will only help your score go up a few points, where as your school loans (paid regularly on time, of course) will cause your score to go up significantly.

On the note of applying for credit cards - yes, they're important. But! They're absolutely important to NOT USE. Having money available on your credit card (especially all of the money on it available) shows companies that you are responsible with money, it makes them want to loan you more.
You do need to make one or two purchases per year or every 6 months to keep it open or they will "turn your card off". A closed account is not good for your credit - banks want to know that you can handle money available over years of time. When you make a purchase on your card, pay it that night when you get home. Seriously. And don't even think about using your credit cards for tough times. Chances are if you're in the middle of tough times, you're not going to be any better off next month when it's time to pay that bill, so why shoot yourself in the foot? Keep em in a drawer or a safe place where they won't be found and you won't have to see them in your wallet every day. (This is also a great way to have back up cards to use if your wallet gets lost or stolen, until you can replace the debit cards, ect that were in your wallet. And then, pay that stuff off as soon as you use it.)

Side note/life hack: I recently tried to pay my card twice in one day (This was because one of the payments came out automatically, but I wanted to pay off the remaining balance.) and they refused to accept the second payment. I called in, and found out that you can do this, but it has to come from a separate bank account than what the first payment came from. When you go to apply for a loan or credit card, it is good to have 0 balances on all of your credit cards. This gives you "more available credit" and this will help you get that loan, ect. Credit cards only update the bureaus with the information, like how much you owe them, once a month on the statement date. That means it is probable that you will have to pay them off a month before you apply for a loan/ect.

With loans, the better your credit score & report is, the better the interest rate will be that they'll offer you when you apply and are approved for that loan. That can mean the difference of thousands of dollars over a year in or out of your pocket. And whether or not you eat ramen or steak for dinner.


What effects your credit score? Lots of things & anything mentioned above. Any loan, credit card, or mortgage that you take out. Also, if you fail to pay any credit card, cell phone, or medical bill, that will be reported to the credit bureaus.
The biggest one, and the one your mum always told you ---- pay your bills, and pay them on time.
Even if it's a day or two late, pay them. Chances are most companies will not send you to collections over a few days late, or even a month. But after that? All bets are off. If you get sent to collections over anything - even that Verizon Wireless cancellation fee, or a medical bill - it will go on your credit for 7 years, and will bring your score down significantly. It's one of the worst things you can do to your credit.

Basically, if you're applying to someone to give you money (in the form of credit card or loans, ect) why would they trust you to pay it back if you haven't paid somebody else back? It's just like trying to borrow $5 from your friend, when you still haven't paid him back the $5 you borrowed last time.


That said, what things affect your Score? What makes it go up and down?

Basically, anything and everything in your credit report.
The best way to figure those questions out is to subscribe to a site like Free Credit Report.com and watch your credit score and report at least once a month. You'll quickly figure out what things make it go up or down in a specific way to you. What better than to get the answer for your specific situation??

Basically, a short form list of what drives your score up or down are as follows. 
However,  I go into detail about each one of these in my other post, please read more there: http://walkerandwhite.blogspot.com/2012/09/diy-credit-free-credit-report-dot-com.html

Credit To Debt Ratio: How much money you have available to spend on your credit cards VS how much you owe those credit card companies. The less you owe them, and having funds on that card available to spend, the better your credit is. For example, if you are only spending 16% or less of your available spending on your credit cards, that's a good thing and your score will go up. If your credit cards are maxed out, or you carry even 40-50% balance it will drive your score down. Also, the less money you have available to spend on a credit card, the bigger an impact that $20 you throw on it will have. It's about percentages, not that specific amount. One personal example: I had two credit cards, an Amazon Visa and a Store Card. Both had a $400 spending limit. On one I spent $250, and on the other I only had charged $60 to it. Now if I just look at the numbers, it doesn't seem like a lot compared to how much I had available to spend. However, when I paid that $250 AND the $60 down to zero on both cards my credit score literally jumped up 20 points. 20 points is enough of a difference that it could mean the difference of getting approved for a loan or denied.

Hard Inquiries: This is anyone, other than yourself, looking at your credit report. You must authorize a bank, credit card company, cell phone company, ect to do this. Applying for a loan or a credit card (even if you're applying for a store card at the Sears check out counter) IS granting them permission to inquire about the status of your credit. Each Hard Inquiry makes an impact on you and your score and your risk. If you have too many hard inquiries this will cause your score to go down. They change your Risk. Risk is another thing banks pay attention to. They want to know that if they go out on a limb for you by loaning you all that money, you're a low risk to take. If your risk is high, it will drive your score up. Risk is exactly what it sounds like. For example, if you only have 2 hard inquiries then you are considered low risk, because you have only applied for borrowed money twice recently. The bank will feel like they aren't taking a big risk by loaning to you, so you are more likely to get the loan.

Important to note: Just because you get a hard inquiry doesn't mean you'll get approved for the loan. The lender/company may not "like what they see".
Hard inquiries only stay active on your credit for two years. You should ideally attempt to only get 5 or less inquiries within two years, that will keep your risk at a medium or lower. Between 5 and 8 inquiries within a 2 year time raises your risk to "high" and it can drop your credit score by a number of points. Any higher than 8 and your score will definitely drop significantly and you may have a harder time getting approved for loans at good interest rates or at all.


You checking your own credit score via the bureaus or a site like free credit report.com is not the same as a hard inquiry. You do not effect your credit in any way by checking it. By law you are entitled to know what your credit report looks like, what specific information is listed, and what your score is.


Negatives: This is the bit that sucks. If you owe anybody anything, were sent to collections over anything, didn't pay a bill of any kind, it can show up here. And it'll stay here for 7 years. It is the biggest thing that makes your score drop. And you could have a good score, with a negative, and still get denied a loan - however, that's not always or even usually the case. The longer they are on there the less of an impact they have on you. For example, if a negative has been on there for 5 years, people might not care much, and your score might not even notice it. Never despair about this, there are things you can do right now to repair it.

Age/Length of Accounts: The longer you've had an account - like your school loans or a credit card - the better. It shows you can handle money over time, and pay monthly payments.

Account Types: Different types of accounts (Credit Cards, Installment Loans, Mortgages, Store Cards) have different weight on your credit score. Mortgages have the biggest weight, installment loans - like school loans - are second. So if you have a big school loan and you pay it every month, you're driving your score up quicker and higher than if you had only a store credit card. If you miss payments on any of these accounts, it will drive your score down significantly, and stay as a negative on your account for 7 years.
Basically the scale is as follows:

Real Estate Loans: These carry the most weight, because they carry the highest numbers and the most responsibility on your part to pay them on time religiously.
Installment Loans: Like your student loans, car loans, personal loans, ect. By having these it will drive your credit score up higher than the two listed below.
Credit Cards: These help you get a start and are somewhat of a "necessary evil". A lot of people cannot handle the responsibility of having available money to spend on a credit card. They will spend all of it, and then that will cause their score to drop farther than where it was before they got the improvement in the score from getting the card in the first place. The way to get the best out of these, is to simply not use them more than once or twice a year/6 months, and to pay them off the literal day you put money on them when you do use them. As mentioned before, it also hurts your credit score if you cancel, close, or have the card shut off. Closed accounts do not help your score. Especially if you are still paying it off.
Retail Cards: They carry the least amount of weight. They will only improve your score by a few points. Sometimes you need a few points, like when you're first getting started, so they will have a bigger impact for you. BUT, if you fail to pay they will drop your score down significantly and damage your credit score, just like if you fail to pay any of the other account types.


Bankruptcy and Court Judgments  If you've filed for bankruptcy, it's gonna show up, and it's going to drive your score down. It'll take time, but you can repair this damage. So don't loose hope. I do not have any personal experience with either of these, so I cannot give personal opinions or information about them.

Credit Cards, Loans, & Other Debts: This is the actual list of all of the different accounts that you have. Whether you pay each one regularly, how much you owe them, how much you've paid so far, how much you pay a month, and if you've ever missed a payment or got a negative on any of these accounts. All of these things effect your credit score.


This is all I've got for now, I know it's a lot to digest, but please read my other entry and also comment or email me if you have any questions. WalkerAndWhite // gmail. 

http://walkerandwhite.blogspot.com/2012/09/diy-credit-free-credit-report-dot-com.html

I'll be posting an entry about how to dispute negative or false information on your credit report soon.

Wednesday, August 29, 2012

Garden Update

The general property needed a lot of heavy clean-up,
so this was the plan I used to do it. Garden Palanner


I began my very first full sized garden this year in early April and May. I had always helped out with my Dad's vegetable and herb garden when I was a kid, so I know a thing or two about plants - I just never have done it by myself outside of potted plants in my apartments.

Since starting all the work of ripping out the old garden/overgrowth & planting, it has really taken off and just grown like crazy. So I thought I'd share a little progress report here.













When I started, it was really out of control. (Pictured left and bottom) The previous owner had planted some kind of "wild flower" garden with "decorative grasses" and an herb or two. It was let go and things basically started choking each other out and it looked like a severe hot mess. My friend, Kao, came over and we ripped the entire garden out to the roots.


















Kao kicking some grass ass.


This decorative grass "thing" took us 4 hours
to get out of the ground. Literally. We were both filled with more than a little malice towards it by the end.
There was quite the victory party when it finally came free.

I then got to do the fun part! Plant shopping and ordering!
I planned a rose and herb garden with a few decorative flowers.
I got all of my roses from Heirloom Roses.com
The miniature roses are Denver's Dream, Flawless, and Fancy Pants. The full size rose, currently potted and not in these early photos, is a David Austin Charity rose.
My herbs are from Rosemary House in Mechanicsburg, PA (http://www.therosemaryhouse.com/)
And the rest (Snap Dragons, Salvia, and Lantana) are from the wonderful people at Meadowbrook Farm over in Jenkintown, PA.

 In the bottom left photo, you can see how badly damaged the grass was before planting. I planted a lot of grass seed and spent some time cultivating it back to health. Spreading seed during a heavy rain, or right before, is a great way to keep the birds from eating it before it has a chance to get into the ground.



In the photo above, on the right, you can see just how tiny these plants were when I got them and first planted them. Fast forward at least a month, and I started seeing a ton of growth. I made many attempts to take photos that showed the grand scale of it, however, couldn't. I decided to do a youtube video and you can see in this where the growth got to. This was my first self filming ever, totally awkward, but you get the info about the garden, so be nice! :P




And since then I've had a great number of beautiful photo opportunities in the garden.










And Finally, another youtube video covering just how large my garden has grown. We've been getting a lot of rain over the last months. Not all day, every day, but the kind that rains at least a little bit almost every day or every other day. I haven't had a lot of time in the garden because of it, and because of vacation. Now that things are cooling off a little bit, the rain isn't so often, and I'm home more I have a lot of time to do the trimming and clean up. However, I wanted to show via youtube just how big everything has grown before I cut a lot of it back. 




I apologize for the poor quality of this video. :/

Anyway! I've spent this evening doing a lot of summer clean up. I'm going to give the garden at least a week to fill in a little more, and will have another higher quality video up soon. And definitely more photos.